Descent From The Grand Boulevards

I'm staying in a place just off the Place de Clichy--where the 8th, 9th and 18th Arrondissements meet.

The 18th is best known for the Sacre-Coeur de Montmartre and its many winding cobblestoned streets. And the Moulin Rouge.  And, oh, the Place Pigalle. My uncle, who spent time in Verdun, France with the US Army, told me that when he and his fellow soldiers had their leave, they headed for Paris  and from the Gare de l'est, straight to the Pigalle.  The cab drivers, he said, all knew the drill.  But as for me, I went only to the Montmarte.  Really, I did!

The 8th is often nicknamed "Elysee" because the boulevard, and the President's residence are located in it.  So are many of the world's best-known fashion houses and France's largest corporations.  The 8th also shares the Arc de Triomphe with the First.  And the 9th is often referred to as "Opera" because the Garnier (not to be confused with the Bastille) Opera house is found there.  It's also called the "Grands Boulevards" district because some of the city's more iconic thoroughfares, including the Boulevard Haussmann, lace it.

I walked down a few of those Boulevards today on my way to Paris Bike Tour.  Along the way, I encountered this:

Now, I know Milton is a common name in English. I couldn't help but to wonder, though, whether the person who named the street was thinking of the poet who wrote Paradise Lost--especially after I encountered this a couple of blocks away:

These scenes of the creation, fall and expulsion of Adam and Eve are behind the pillars of this church:

the Parish of St. Vincent de Paul, next to the Franz Liszt Square.  While the Sacre Coeur de Montmartre is actually located atop a hill, the St. Vincent de Paul only seems to be because of its placement on land that was built up.  Thus, while it stands over everything else in a neighborhood that doesn't have (thankfully!) high-rise buildings, it doesn't dominate the way the Sacre Coeur or even the Notre Dame do in their environments.

Interestingly, the church's organists have included some distinguished musicians.  The one you are most likely to recognize, though, is one whose name you associate with something else:  Louis Braille, the inventor of the tactile writing system for the blind still in use, virtually unchanged.

From there, I passed by the Place de la Republique.  Given that any number of riots or rebellions (depending on your point of view) have begun there, over every sort of cause imaginable, it's not surprising that some of the gilets jaunes have protested--and probably will protest again--in that square.  There, I found something one of the gilets jaunes--or people who are in completely different parts of the political, social and economic spectrum--might have written:

La France est un dictature!! La resistance est un devoir!  You don't need to know much French to get the gist of that:  France is a dictatorship!  Resistance is a duty!  Actually, you could substitute the name of many other countries, including my own, for France: Most countries, I think, are dictatorships, whether of political leaders or the economic elites.

After some more walking, I reached the Centre Georges Pompidou and enjoyed a crepe and coffee in a nearby cafe.  Then I walked to Paris Bike Tour, just across the pedestrian- and bike-mall known as as Rue Rambuteau from the Centre.

The first thing I noticed is that they occupy a smaller space than I recall from the last time I rented one of their bikes.  And it was closed.  Turns out, from December to March, they are open "only by reservation."  In one way, it's not surprising, as there probably isn't much demand for their tours during the winter.  But I had to wonder whether Velib, Ofo and other services have eroded their rental business.

So, I guess I'll be using Velib after all: I don't want to spend too much of my remaining time in search of another rental outlet.  Or, perhaps,  I'll get lucky and find a cheap used bike somewhere. 

A Harvard Debate On Bicycles

Students in universities like Harvard are known to probe for answers to all sorts of deep questions.

At least, in popular imagination, they are. 

(At this point, the Harvard graduates of my acquaintance might stop reading this post--or reading this blog altogether.  "There's no other university like Harvard!" they would protest.)

OK...So what sorts of questions might they ponder? Ones about the nature of the universe?  The meaning of life?

How about this:  Should the school's undergraduate council help to subsidize bicycle purchases at local shops for low-income students?  Or should the Council buy those bicycles and rent them on an annual basis?

(And here I thought Harvard didn't have low-income students.  Then again, to be fair, I should point out that Harvard's tuition is less than that of other Ivy League schools!)

However Council members discussed the subsidy-vs.-rental issue, they at least recognize that bicycles are important for students.  Some, of course, use them for transportation.  But Council representative Rainbow Yeung (With a name like that, she should be in Naropa University!) pointed out that bicycles can "definitely positively (Is that the Crimson way of saying "totally, absolutely"?) impact a lot of students' mental health."

A Harvard bicycle. Actually, it's a 1936 Rollfast "Harvard".  I know it has nothing, besides the name, to do with this article.  But I love the way it looks!

So she and the Council have good intentions, at least.  But those who oppose the subsidy idea believe that purchasing bikes and renting them out to students would "take away the upfront costs and make sure it stays within the community," in the words of representative Victor Agfabe.  On the other hand, proponents of the subsidy say that maintaining a fleet of bikes "makes it clear that, oh, here are the UC bikes for the students on financial aid," according to fellow representative Amanda Flores.

The two sides debated, as such folk are wont to do.  And, last week, they took a vote.  In the end, they went with the subsidies.  The Undergraduate Council decided to allocate $3000, of which any one qualifying student can receive $50.  

Students may also use their money to purchase a skateboard or scooter.  I have to wonder, though, how much skateboard, scooter or bicycle they can buy for $50:  they are all just about as expensive in the Boston area as they are here in New York!

The Dilemma

So..After ten days of hot and mostly dry weather in Italy, I came home to...a week of hot--and humid--weather in New York, punctuated by rain.

Yesterday was a respite.  I could not have asked for better cycling weather.  When I started, the skies were partly cloudy and the temperature was 17C.  The skies cleared along the way and the temperature increased a bit, but I was pedaling into 20-25 kph wind most of the way.  Still, I barely sweated all the way to Connecticut, where the sky was overcast.

On my way home, the clouds broke for some sun, but I didn't feel the need to replenish my sunscreen.  I think the temperature reached about 26C by the time I finished, in mid-afternoon.

The ride was completely pleasant and uneventful.  I was riding Arielle, my Mercian Audax, so it could hardly have been smoother or more effortless.  Although it's a drop-bar all-arounder road bike, I felt less strain on me than I did when I was riding an upright bike in Rome.  It probably has to do with the Mercian's fit.  Also, being a lighter bike, it's simply easier to pedal in  higher gears.  Most of all, it's my bike, so even when I don't ride it for a couple of weeks (or months, as sometimes happens during the winter), it takes me no time to re-acclimate myself to it.

So, which is better:  Going to faraway places and riding among sights you will rarely, if ever, experience again--or riding a bike you know and love on a route you know?

Such a dilemma!  It used to be so much easier back in the day, when most airlines (the non-US carriers, anyway) would take your boxed bike (with pedals, front wheel and handlebars removed) as one of your pieces of luggage as long as it, and whatever else you brought, was within the weight limit.  For most European carriers--as well as Air India, Air Pakistan (yes, I flew them to Europe), that limit was 44 kilos.

These days, it seems, airlines don't want you to bring your bike, or charge some exorbitant fee for it.  I figured that for a ten-day trip, it was easier to rent a bike, especially since I wasn't going across the countryside with loaded panniers and camping gear.

Of course, the obvious solution would be to get one of those bikes that travels easily like Bike Friday or Brompton, which would cost about as much as going on a trip somewhere.  Or, perhaps, there's some other way to take Arielle or one of my other bikes across the seas with me.

That would make my choices a little easier.  Then again, when I come home from a Connecticut ride--or one to Point Lookout or the Jersey Shore--Max and Marlee are waiting for me!

How It Ends

When you've taken a trip, was there a sign that it was over--or about yto end?

For me, it came late yesterday, when I returned the bike I rented from Paris Bike Tour.  Stephen--who was so helpful when I rented from them last year--was there, and we talked for a while.  I was being selfish,really:  It was near closing time, and I'm sure he, and the other staff  members, wanted to eat, go home, or get some kind of relaxation.



Truth is, even though I enjoyed talking with him and the rest of the staff, I was prolonging my time with them as if I were in denial that my trip was about to end.  

Now Paris Bike Tours has the bike I rented.  I have memories, and soon I will be on my way to my own bikes--and Marley, Max and my other friends!

Anyway, I'll tell you more about this trip if you'd like.  I'd like that, a lot.