Yesterday I rode into stiff wind, though sunshine breaking through trees and opening clouds over the sea. Then, as I had the wind at my back, a curtain of clouds drew across the sun and darkened, and I got caught in the kind of late-afternoon downpour this part of Florida experiences in summer. Then again, by that time, the temperature, at about 27C, or 80 F.
Today I pedaled about the same distance--about 100 kilometers--as I did yesterday, but in the opposite direction. I did that on purpose: The wind, not quite as stiff as yesterday's, was blowing from the north instead of the south. That is probably what dropped the temperature by about 17 degrees Celsius to about 10 C, or 50F.
The sky and sea even looked colder:
I never saw that kind of light before in Florida--not even at the place in the photos: Matanzas Bay, where it enters the ocean.
Under that light I pedaled, against the wind but full of good energy, all the way up Route A1A to the Bridge of Lions, which leads to the historic center of St. Augustine:
I think the temperature dropped by another 10 degrees Celsius when I crossed the bridge. At least, it felt that way, even after I pedaled to the old fort.
I must say, though, it's a lovely place, even when it's (comparatively) cold and still full of tourists.
And, yes, the skies cleared for my ride back to my parents' house. And I had the wind at my back.
Since I've come to Florida, I think I've seen every kind of weather one can find when the temperature is above freezing. Today, I thought I was entering a path of sunshine.
Light and warmth threaded through those tree limbs and filled the sky as I rode the Lehigh Trail, which begins about two kilometers from my parents' house and extends for five kilos to Colbert Road, which leads to SR 100 and the bridge to Flagler Beach.
There are few things in this world that I love more than descending a bridge to an ocean I can see on the horizon
even if I turn right at the end of the bridge and pedal 50 kilometers straight into a 30 kilometer per hour wind that, at moments, gusted to 40 KPH.
I mean, how could I complain when my ride was filled with the wind, the light and the hiss of the ocean--which meant that they were filling me>
Like Flagler Beach yesterday and today, Daytona Beach did not lack for people walking along the sand on the warm day. At Flagler and Daytona, however, swimming was not allowed. No one was allowed even to enter any of the beaches along the 50 or so kilometers of Atlantic Coast between them.
After savoring two of mom's meatball sandwiches and polishing them off with some strawberries and a mandarin orange, I started my ride back. After the ride down, it was almost too easy: the wind I'd fought on the way down was blowing at my back. But that wind also brought something else:
gray clouds thickening ahead of me. The fact that I was riding about as fast as my body could move the ballon-tired beach cruiser under it meant that I could ride right into the rain.
Which is what happened after I turned left from the Flagler Beach pier onto the SR 100 bridge. After climbing away from the ocean and descending on the "mainland", a cascade dropped from the sky on me. There was no prelude of light showers gradually turning to rain; that storm dropped straight on me. It was like the "instant storms" that often soak this area, momentarily, late on summer afternoons. The difference was that this storm didn't include lightning and thunder. But it ended about halfway into the Lehigh Trail--about fifteen minutes before I got to my parents' house.
The rain that pattered the canal yesterday turned, for a time, into a barrage last night. When I woke this morning, raindrops were poking ephemeral pockmarks in the face of the water.
But, by the time Dr. Phil's show ended (Yes, I watched it with my mother and father.), the rain had stopped and the sun looked like it was trying to wedge itself between clouds. I got on the bike a while later, and the clouds closed ranks on the sun. Still, I managed to ride along some trails to the Palm Coast Parkway Bridge, where the scene changed just a bit.
Of course, when you see something on your left, you look to your right. Or is it the other way around? Who told me that, anyway?
In any event, I looked to my left and saw this:
I thought, for a moment, it was sea mist. After I descended the bridge and turned onto the Route A1A bike/pedestrian lane, it thickened faster than the makeup of a reality TV star.
The shrouded area is known as Painters Hill. It's a very lovely area where, on many a day, breezes skip across sea oats and other grasses and shrubs on the dunes that line the ocean. I would have loved to see how a painter might have rendered it in the light I saw today.
The Flagler Beach pier jutted out into water that dissolved into mist. The eponymous beach, about 10 kilometers south of Painter's Hill, was the only one open along A1A from Palm Coast to Ormond Beach. The area is still recovering from recent storm and the surf was rough. Nobody was swimming at Ormond, but of course, a few surfers flung themselves into the tides.
Finally, as I reached Ormond Beach, the fog began to dissipate and the sun that, earlier, had been trying to get a few waves in edgewise pushed some clouds aside--and shone through a light mist.
I must say, though, that I don't recall much, if any fog in my previous two dozen or so trips here. Certainly I had never before seen what I saw today.